AS YOU may be aware, Mrs FM has been carrying out a lot of work near Lincoln Castle, for her ancient buildings job and, yes, I have already received enough jibes about her receiving plenty of practice on me. However, I do rely on the old girl to pass on the occasional snippet about what is going on in uphill Lincoln and she was delighted to inform me about developments at Charlotte House, which is based in The Lawns complex.

As you may recall, the Castlegate Restaurant, prior to becoming an Indian eatery, served as the dedicated dining establishment for Charlotte House.

For whatever reason, which had nothing to do with its first-class food, it served purpose for only about a year. Naturally, a hotel could not hope to survive without a restaurant and plans, it seems, had always been afoot to install one within the building.

Thus, a large and expensive glass atrium was created on the front of Charlotte House and a luxurious, leather-clad lounge and restaurant has resulted. Mrs FM made the booking for two.

We entered the hotel at the bar and ordered an alcoholic ginger beer for the lady and a pint of lager for me, before being guided through to the lounge by a very pleasant young lady, where we sat admiring the extensive glasswork until being led to our table. It was draped in an Egyptian white cotton tablecloth, upon which was immaculate white crockery and new cutlery.

Our first courses of pea soup for Mrs FM and scallops for me were delivered to the table. The pale green soup, served in a deep white bowl, contained small chunks of goat's cheese, black olives and a light Balsamic drizzle was both very flavoursome and of pleasing consistency.

My scallops (four-and-a-half of the gorgeous shellfish; £2 supplementary charge) were served on a long white tray, alongside some pak choi. However, the lemongrass, chilli, ginger oil and sesame seeds were a step too far on the flavourings front, the fiery combination detracting from the delicate taste of the scallops. Less heavy-handedness would have been a better route.

Our starters were accompanied by a lovely fresh corn bread, which was herbed and served with both red pepper and thyme butter patties, alongside a small bowl of broad beans and feta cheese in a vinaigrette dressing, which was most interesting.

Our mains were delivered soon after the table had been cleared, Mrs FM having ordered the Lincoln Red fillet of beef (£5 supplement), served with a horseradish butter sauce and a broad bean and tomato salsa, which looked most attractive on the plate. I had struggled with my choice, eventually settling on the slow-roasted pork "middle-white" belly, served with basil and saffron mashed potatoes and apple puree in its own jus.

Although I am personally not a fan of Lincoln Red beef, the fillet presented to Mrs FM was of good quality, cooked perfectly to her medium request. As tends to be the case, it was lacking slightly on the flavour front, even though the consistency of the cut was exceptional and free from gristle. It needed the accompaniments to enhance the taste and the horseradish sauce was particularly good.

We had ordered the hand-cut chips with rosemary salt and the steamed seasonal vegetables, consisting of baby leeks, baby carrots, mange-tout, cauliflower florets and broccoli.

Both added a further £3 each in supplementary charges to the cost of the meal. Fortunately, the chips were exquisite and the vegetables were steamed to perfection.

My belly pork was tasty enough, served in a round of crackling, although its meat content was slight and too much unresolved fat remained in the serving, which tainted the overall flavour. The finely creamed basil and saffron potato was a pleasant, if anonymous, accompaniment, although the apple puree was spot-on and the pan juices were very tasty.

As we were both eminently satisfied that we had consumed enough food, we departed without trying dessert or coffee.

If there was one minor disappointment, it came at reckoning time, when I appreciated that all of the supplementary charges had bumped up the "two courses for £16.95" to about £25 each and, despite the valiant attempt to become a "fine dining" establishment, I believe the commensurate balance is not yet achieved. Still, perhaps Charlotte House may escalate those lofty heights in due course, Lincoln certainly needs it.

WHERE: Charlotte House Hotel, Union Road, Lincoln, LN1 3BJ.

TELEPHONE: 01522 541000.

THE DAMAGE: Scallops – £2.00 supp.; pea soup; beef fillet steak – £5.00 supp.; slow-roast pork belly; chips – £3.00 supp.; steamed seasonal vegetables – £3.00 supp.; 2-course meals (x2) – £16.95 each; pint of Becks Vier lager – £3.50; bottle of Crabbies Ginger Beer – £3.00.

TOTAL: £53.40.

FINAL VERDICT: A new in-house restaurant for established hotel that will surely gain recognition soon.