AS THE Boy prepares for his trip to Hong Kong and the Far East for almost a fortnight, I have recommended he dines at least one evening on the Waterfront in HK Harbour. The sights and sounds are sure to give him another perspective on life and dining abroad is such a great learning experience.

As he was due to depart in three days, the Memsahib suggested that both he and I should have an in-depth travel meeting, while dining together at an appropriately convivial restaurant.

As it has been some four years since I last visited The Jenny Wren Inn, at Susworth (just south of Scunthorpe), we both agreed that it would provide an excellent opportunity. You can take the riverbank road out of Gainsborough and Susworth is literally 15 minutes north of the Trent-side town. Alternatively, drive to Scotter and turn left. Whichever route you pick, it is easy on the transport and a pleasant drive.

Needless to say, The Boy was peckish, so, obtaining our soft drinks from the bar and taking to a table outside in the courtyard, we were served by the lady of the house. Although the main menu consists of a number of typical pub-type meals, we opted for a choice from the blackboards.

When the starters arrived, we were both struck by the generosity of the portions. The Boy had the spare ribs in a piquant barbecue sauce. There were two racks of exceptionally tasty and very meaty ribs that were so tender the flesh virtually fell from them. They were accompanied by a fresh bistro-type salad lightly drizzled in a mustard dressing.

My cream of tomato soup was served in a white mini-tureen and was simply exceptional. Its consistency was helped by using finely shredded carrots and a mix of different tomato types for their combination of sweetness and fruity density. Lightly herbed and accompanied by warmed crusty bread rolls and a decent ramekin of salted butter, it was an excellent first course.

The mains arrived in good order, both of us having selected our favourite fish courses from the extensive specials menu. The Boy went for the sea bass served with a light cherry tomato sauce, on a bed of crushed new potatoes, whereas I had opted for the wondrously dense monkfish, accompanied by a lime butter sauce and four new potatoes. The mixed vegetables side dish for two people consisted of sliced golden carrots and fresh cabbage, both of which had been steamed to perfection and tasted truly splendid.

The sea bass serving was three medium-size fillets of the most gorgeous-tasting white flesh, which were enhanced by the very flavoursome cherry tomato sauce, which was so rich in flavour, yet not in the least bit overpowering for the delicacy of the fish. The Boy was hugely satisfied with his main course, describing it as one of the best meals he had consumed in a long time.

My monkfish was every bit as good looking on the plate as the waves of citric butter and steam that rose from the small chunks of the dense and truly tasty flesh. Of course, it is a very oily fish and it can be ruined very easily by overcooking it but the chef at The Jenny Wren had pan-fried it to perfection. I, too, was delighted with my main course. Both fish dishes tasted as though they had been caught that morning.

We both decided that two courses was more than enough, until the young waitress appeared with the desserts board, which neither of us could resist. Therefore, in respect of our need to provide you with the best review of this place, we partook of a pudding apiece. The Boy chose the apple crumble with vanilla ice cream, while I selected the chocolate trifle.

Both were superb. The crumble was rich and buttery, the warm smell of apples, honey and cinnamon emanating from the bowl just adding to its allure. My chilled chocolate trifle provided a surprise in every spoonful thanks to the clever use of dried fruit in the mix of smooth chocolate sauce, chunks of dense eggy sponge all topped by a delicious dollop of meringue. It was sweet enough to be almost too much, but so competently produced that I wanted more.

I am really glad that we revisited The Jenny Wren.

I recommend this pub/restaurant highly.

WHERE: East Ferry Road, Susworth, Lincolnshire, DN17 3AR

TELEPHONE: 01724 784000.

THE DAMAGE: Spare ribs – £5.95; tomato soup – £3.95; sea bass in light tomato sauce – £14.95; monkfish in lime butter sauce –- £15.95; apple crumble with ice-cream – £4.50; chocolate trifle – £4.50; J2O with soda (x2) – £3.80; pint of Coke – £1.95.

TOTAL: £55.55.

FINAL VERDICT: The Jenny Wren is a special eating establishment in the North Lincs countryside.