IF memory serves, I believe that it was Grandpa FM who stated 'More haste, less speed' with amazing regularity. Mind you, as I recall, he drove a Bullnose Morris absolutely everywhere, was the bane of other road-users' lives and, when he was not sounding its 'ahooga' klaxon, he was remonstrating with someone. While I believe his car survives somewhere, I always try very hard not to follow in his footsteps.

While you will not find me being as irascible, things could have come to blows at Gino's the other evening, when my dear friend from the motor trade Swiss Tony and Yours Truly decided that a change of diet was as good as a rest. It has been a while since last I consumed an Italian meal in uphill Lincoln. As Swiss said, 'Too long!' and he was correct.

With the ground floor of the compact eatery packed, we headed upstairs to the roomier and airier environment. Of course, everything about this place is Italian authentic, even down to the bistro-style furniture and the cod-Italian accents of the non-native waiting staff.

Perusing the plastic encapsulated menus, Swiss selected the costolette Marco Polo ribs and risotto alla pescadore, while I opted for cozze alla marinara green-lip mussels to be followed by a bowl of spaghetti alla Bolognese.

Having ordered a Peroni beer apiece, served in appropriately branded tall glasses, we spent our amazingly brief waiting time chatting about the state of the motor industry. It is not that Swiss was complaining, as his business is definitely in a very good condition, but he is thoroughly confused about how and from where his customers seem to appear.

The starters were delivered to our table far quicker than I ever expected and, to be frank, I have had microwave meals that have been slower to get to the table. However, my bowl of around ten substantial mussels, served in their half shells, prepared and steamed to perfection with a gorgeous, creamy garlic sauce, was just too good to resist.

Each shellfish was levered from its foot on the inner shell with great ease and I realised that the best way to consume them was to hold the shell in one hand, using the fork in the other to eat the meat, supping the sauce from the half-shell afterwards.

The rest of the sauce was mopped up by the French breadstick slices also brought to our table, accompanied by slices of fresh salted butter.

Swiss's pair of ribs make the racks supplied at other Italian eateries in town look positively insubstantial. Just the two were soaked in a gorgeously peppery barbecued tomato sauce. They were very meaty and exceptionally tasty. Although I was forced, reluctantly, to give up one of my mussels, the chunk of pork rib that Swiss gave to me was exquisite.

Within two minutes of the table being cleared and fresh cutlery being laid out on new paper napkins, the mains arrived.

Swiss's risotto was a lovely rich orange in colour and it was packed with different types of fish meat. There were even two of the mussels in their half-shells, alongside cod chunks and king prawns, although I could not see the cuttlefish that normally accompanies this dish. Mind you, that was a minor availability non-issue. The piping hot flavour was gorgeous and the rice base was perfectly al dente, just the way it should be.

My spaghetti Bolognese was outstanding. The pasta was cooked perfectly and the beef mince sauce was laden with tomatoes, parsley and herbs, topped with Parmesan shavings. It was a most generous portion and possessed a stunning consistency that demanded I consume every morsel in the bowl.

We departed happily, to indulge in a snifter in the Potting Shed, back at Chez FM. The speed of service and delicious food at Gino's proved my grandfather's sage words wrong. Haste and speed are no bad thing at all.

WHERE: 7 Gordon Road, Bailgate, Lincoln, LN1 3AJ.

TELEPHONE: 01522 513770.

THE DAMAGE: Costolette Marco Polo - £8.50; cozze alla marinara - £6.55; risotto alla pescadore - £15.65; spaghetti alla Bolognese - £7.95 - Peroni bottled beer (x3) - £8.85.

TOTAL: £47.50.

FINAL VERDICT: One of the busiest restaurants in town continues to thrive on a comprehensive menu served well.